We moved on from Pennsylvania to West Virginia, which is one of the five poorest states in the Union, but it wasn’t always that way. In fact, Wheeling, WV was the richest city per capita in the U.S. during the late 19th century. But those days are long gone — so why oh why would we choose to stop here? It’s for prisons and palaces, of course, cuz we’re weird that way! Hopefully you can tell which is which …….
West Virginia Penitentiary (Moundsville)
The looming gothic-style building was built in 1876. A presumably-highly-entertaining 90-minute tour was made less entertaining by the tour guide having severe laringitis and barely able to be understood. They also host a variety of paranormal and ghost tours, and signs indicated something known as the “Mock Prison Riot,” which sounded unsettling and stressful.
The West Virginia Penitentiary once housed some of the most notorious prisoners in the country, including the Lindbergh baby kidnapper, until he was executed for the crime. It was permanently closed in 1995 because of conditions so inhumane and dangerous that they didn’t even reach baseline prison standards, which are pretty frickin’ low to begin with. Capital crimes were hanged here from 1889-1950, and the electric chair was also used on only the most diabolical and outrageous criminals, like this guy.
We heard about a little boy, Charlie, whose mom was incarcerated here for eight years. He visited often and basically considered the West Virginia Penitentiary to be his home; the wardens often let him play under their desks. When mom was finally released, she scooped up Charlie, remarried, and gave her new husband’s last name to her son. And so, later in life when Charlie — now Charles — was sentenced for seven counts of first-degree murder in California, he asked to be transferred back to the West Virginia prison, his first “home.” That boy? Charles Manson.
The tour includes the opportunity to be locked into a cell for an excruciating 30 seconds, as well as peeks into cells containing a “glory hole” (use your imagination after considering the height of said hole was right about groin high), and also that of the designated tattoo artist, who refined his craft on the walls.
*Bonus Content: Prisonpalooza!*
I think I must have been in law enforcement (or, possibly, a hardened criminal) in a past life, because I have on ongoing fascination with visiting prisons, watching shows like Cops and Prison Break, and Hollywood movies like Shawshank Redemption and The Green Mile. By far the most fun prison we’ve visited was the location where Shawshank Redemption was filmed in Ohio.
But other fun prisons nationwide include the Territorial Prison (Yuma, AZ), a fascinating glimpse into the rough-and-tumble days of the early Arizona Territory. With cells carved from rock, and a reputation as one of the most haunted places in the U.S., YTP housed some of the West’s baddest and boldest from 1876-1909.
Old Montana Prison (Deer Lodge, MT) was Montana’s only home for convicted criminals for 108 years starting in 1871. Inmates included at least one member of Butch Cassidy’s “Wild Bunch” and two of the top three suspected “Zodiac Killer” candidates.
Colorado Prison Museum (Canon City, CO) is housed within a real 1930’s-era women’s cell block, and is filled chock-full with lots of historical items. You go into each of the 32 cells with their unique themes and related exhibits about famous prisoners, past wardens, historic riots and escapes, and “behavior control devices” including balls and chains, cattle prods, and a whipping horse known as the “Old Gray Mare.”
There are others, and later on this trip we will visit the Old Joliet Prison where “Joliet Jake” resided in the Blues Brothers movie. Stay tuned!
Wheeling Suspension Bridge
Meanwhile, back in West Virginia, the historic Wheeling Suspension Bridge, the world’s largest at the time of its opening in 1849, is no longer open to auto traffic, but all the better for pedestrians like us to cross the Ohio River and watch the tugboats send cargo upriver. Ain’t she a beauty?
Wheeling Island Racetrack
Also in Wheeling, you’ll find one of only two active greyhound racetracks left in the U.S., both located in West Virginia. 43 states have outlawed dog racing, although #tbh the dogs looked pretty excited about being there and chasing that rabbit. It was also hilarious when the rabbit malfunctioned and the dogs ran every which way, not knowing what to do without the proverbial carrot to lead the way.
My dad used to take my brother and me to the track when we were kids, so it was fun to relive fond memories and lighten our wallets a bit as they barrelled around the track! Only in West Virginia!
Prabhupada’s Palace of Gold (New Vrindiban)
Prabhupada’s Palace of Gold was a strange site, nestled in nowheresville West Virginia. Rounding the corner of this rural area, would you expect to see something like this, covered in more than 8,000 square feet of 22 karat gold?
The Palace is located inside New Vrindiban, a small Hare Krishna community founded in 1968, with just a few hundred full time residents. Each year, tens of thousands of visitors make a pilgrimage to this memorial to A. C. Bhaktivedanta Swami Prabhupada, the leader of the Hare Krishna movement in the United States, who came here in 1965 at the age of 70.
Originally built as a home for Prabhupada, he had the nerve to die before it was finished, so it instead because a shrine to his memory. Everyone was very welcoming of our super-white faces, but at least 95% of visitors were of Indian descent, dressed in gorgeous colorful clothing and bare feet.
We did fall quite behind during the Hare Krishna chant, which they believe is the principal means to connect with God — I knew I should have studied up beforehand — although it’s not that complicated. “Hare Krishna Hare Krishna Krishna Krishna Hare Hare Hare Rama Hare Rama Rama Rama Hare Hare.” Repeat. A lot.
The stunningly remarkable building was constructed with gold, carved teakwood, 52 varieties of marble and onyx, and other rare materials. It was entirely built by Hare Krishna volunteers, many of whom had no prior experience in construction or renovation. Photos were not allowed inside during the 30-minute guided tour, but it was truly breathtaking.
Besides the Palace, there are many other locations in New Vrindiban, including a working Hare Krishna temple, Sri Sri Radha Vrindaban Chandra Mandir, a place of pilgrimage for many thousands of visitors each year.
It was mind-blowing to wander inside and be instantly immersed in their religious practices, which included falling to the floor in prayer at a moments notice. THUD! and suddenly the person who was just standing beside you is splayed out.
A group sitting on the floor listened raptly during Bhagavad-Gita class, learning knowledge of five basic truths: Krishna (God), the soul, the material world, action in this world, and time. So, kinda the Hare Krishna version of bible study, but with a 700-verse Hindu scripture.
Back outside the temple, walking trails take you beside beautiful ponds and shrines to their cherished animals: cow sanctuary, elephant statues, peaceful swans, and peacocks, many of which are wandering the property.
They also have a multi-cultural, vegetarian Sunday brunch in the award-winning Rose Garden, with over 100 varieties. New Vrindiban believes that meat consumption creatives negative karma. We felt pretty guilty about that steak thawing on the counter back at the RV ….
Visiting the Palace of Gold was a really cool way to take a peek inside a culture that had been completely unknown to us, before now!
Grand Vue Park (Moundsville)
We stayed at “Grand Vue Campground,” which despite the cutesy-in-an-annoying-way spelling of the name, did indeed deliver on great “vues” (views). Everything in West Virginia seems to be up a big hill or down a big hill, and this place was no exception, with narrow, curvy, 11% grades to reach the park. Once there, we enjoyed Fourth of July fireworks over the town of Moundsville below, fmy brother and sister-in-law’s party platform on the back of their RV.
We channeled our inner 8-year-olds at Grand Vue, which has an extraordinary amount of fun amenities, including a fabulous pool complex, 18 hole mini golf, 2 disc golf courses, a bar/grill, and lots of special programs, including t-shirt tie-dying (my cuticles are still red and blue weeks later) and watching an epic foam party (much to Philip’s dismay, only for the “young” and not the “young at heart”).
When in West Virginia, don’t forget about The Mothman! We haven’t spent much time in West Virginia, except our epic 2019 visit to The Mothman Museum, further south in Point Pleasant. This is really something you’ve to got to see to (not) believe ….. behold, West Virginia’s version of Bigfoot!
We parted ways with Jeff and Nicole after this stop, with them heading south to Virginia, and us heading west to Indiana. We’re taking our RV to RV Country, which is kinda like visiting the hospital in which you were born. Next- we’re going to where 85% of the world’s RVs are manufactured: Decatur and Elkhart, IN!
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I can’t tell you how many times Alan and I have come across what we call “subcultures” that we know nothing about during our travels. They always provide an excellent opportunity to educate ourselves, and that education is usually pretty intriguing. I can tell you that I don’t share your fascination with prisons and prison life. 😟