HOLY (SEA) COW! A visit to Crystal Springs and Homosassa, Florida, is not complete without a wild manatee encounter. And we had a few of them — some planned, some unplanned! Behold one of the world’s gentlest giants … ain’t he the CUTEST?
Manatees come to this area for the same reason you go to a luxury spa … warm water, and quality food! Between November and March, when the waters of the Gulf are cold, they become snowbirds (snowmammals?) who migrate to the luxuriating 72-degree waters.
These guys are huge — the size of a large Coke machine. Thus, they eat a lot — a third of their body weight every day! They happily munch seagrass on bottom of the river floor from November to March during the time they are here.
Yes they are big, but no they are not dangerous. They are happy to float along with you, and these tiny hairs all over their bodies alert them to your presence at all time.
Why the tiny hairs? Because their eyesight is for crap, and having no neck, they can’t swivel their heads to check around them. Kinda like Guido, the bodyguard, in every Mafia movie you’ve ever watched.
There are many companies that will take you out in the water to swim with manatees. We chose River Ventures, but the painting in their dressing room was deceptive, because while you may be inches from manatee, you are not to pet, poke, stroke, touch, or do the tango with any manatee you encounter — you ARE guests in their home after all, but more importantly, they are federally protected.
Manatees might be here for the warm waters, but it sure didn’t feel warm to us humans, even in March, even in wetsuits.
The earlier in winter, the better to find multiple manatee, before they migrate back to the Gulf. We nearly froze to death but it was worth it for an up-close-and personal with these guys!
The following day, we had additional (unplanned) up-close-and-personals, just off starboard (or was that port? I can never remember), as we were kayaking the Chassahowitzka River! Nearby kayakers silently gathered around and we gazed in awe at multiple manatee, just livin’ life.
But if you still haven’t decided if you agree that they are cute … wait for it … wait for it … how about Mama and her not-so-tiny, 60-pound, newborn Baby, hitchin’ a ride! Cue the “awwww’s”!!!!
Here you can see them underwater, where the baby is nursing from a flap on mommy’s underside. It’s an on-the-move snack, right off the side of our kayak.
Manatees come up for air with their big snorty nostrils about once every 5-6 minutes. Seems like they want a kiss!
A friend told me that her mom was getting out of a kayak (at age 88, mind you) and had to sort of roll herself onto the dock before standing up. So she came up with this clever poem:
“There’s nothing so hard on the vanity — As ascending a dock like a manatee“
Isn’t that great? Anyway, the Chassahowitzka (Seminole Indian for “hanging pumpkin place”) River begins right at our campground, with crystal clear water rising from underground springs. How’s that for clarity?
In certain locations, it’s like you are gazing down into the glowing center of the earth.
The “Chazz” (as the cool kids call it) is a great spot for wildlife watching, though some of it less desirable than others, especially to an Arizona gal. Coyote and cactus dangers, yes. Alligators and water snakes? Heck no. Thankfully, we didn’t see either of these.
But with more than 250 bird species, 50 reptiles and amphibians, and 25 mammals theoretically in residence here, this is an awesome place to get back to nature and enjoy a floating picnic.
It’s the kind of river that is so fun to visit, that you just might want to stash your vessel in a “kayak kondo” locker so you can return again and again!
About 15 miles from Homosassa is the equally strangely-named town of Weeki Watchi. We immediately shifted gears from manatee-hunting to mermaid-hunting, at Weeki Watchi Springs State Park.
That’s right, I said mermaids. Because this place has been presenting live, underwater mermaid shows since 1946! Archival footage of older shows played while we waited for the show to start. Back then, the shows seemed to be more elaborate, have more mermaids, and inexplicably highlight more peel-and-eat-a-fresh-banana underwater action, than the one we saw in 2023.
But it was still a great time, in a so-corny-don’t-even-try-to-pretend-you’re-not-enjoying-it way!
In a historic nod, the show was sure to recreate the pose on the statue that has been in front of the park for decades.
It’s a family-friendly destination, with cool wildlife encounters, including of the mermaid variety.
You might even get a personal encounter with the handsome King Neptune!
Or, cool off at the park’s water playground … but leave your mermaid attire at home, please.
Also at Weeki Watchi was a rare Mold-A-Matic machine. It seems ridiculous now, but back in the day, this state-of-the-art technology was the early forerunner to 3D printers.
It’s kinda hilarious that we are now on the cusp of 3D printing replacement human organs, but back in the day it was a pretty big deal to get a custom souvenir, touted as “magic” even, still warm from the device.
Yes, mermaid culture runs deep in these parts …. but this wasn’t the only surprising car decoration we saw. Like, who would even think those thoughts, much less go to the trouble to imprint them on a decal and attach them to their vehicle …?
Bubbles the Manatee wished us Happy St. Pat’s and happy travels as we left this area. Philip liked posing with this guy because it made him look small.
We’re continuing south to the Sarasota area, where we are excited for a semi-private tour of the winter mansion home of Mable and John Ringling, AKA the “circus king,” and the spectacular home art museum where they displayed their valuable treasures. Bye bye, mermaids and manatees … we’ll never forget you!
Delightful post, Tessa, and fabulous pics, as always! You guys are the cool kids with the coolest adventures! When we were camped at Ortona South on the Okeechobee a few years back, Alan had a conversation with the lockmaster. She pointed out three manatees in the lock and explained that they actually learn how to lock through so they can travel the waterway. When the gates open, then enter the lock, swim to the other end and wait for the lock doors to open after the lock either fills or empties. They are such fascinating creatures – I can understand how swimming with them would be an amazing experience!
I nearly squealed when I saw the modern Mold-A-Matic! As a kid, I remember bringing home a green brontosaurus as a souvenir from the 1964 World’s Fair that I made in what would now be an antique mold machine. Indeed, the process seemed like magic to a little kid – and, obviously to Philip, too. Best souvenir ever!
Here’s a tip for you; you’ll never mix up port and starboard again: When you’re on a boat or ship, looking toward the bow (the front), port is on your left and starboard is on the right. “Port” has four letters and so does “left.” You’re welcome!
I wondered if manatees were dumb or smart (no way to tell as they just silently floated by), so you’ve answered that question — probably smarter than most humans!!! And now I can feel smart with my secret tip to remember port/starboard! You’re the best, Mary!!! 🙂 PS I wish you still had that green brontosaurus, I’d love to see it!
We’ve kayaked the Chazz but we didn’t see a baby manatee. So now we have to go back. I booked a week at an Airbnb for next March in Homosassa just because of this post!! By the way, Philip is totally the BEST King Neptune. But you already knew that. 🙂
Extraordinary photos of the Crystal Springs water and the manatees! What an experience you had! Too bad Finn & Sprinkles couldn’t join you to see these stunning creatures. Happy that Philip didn’t sneak a mermaid into Elsie!
It was really something special!!! And Finn and Sprinkles could technically have kayaked with us, but they both wanted to stay home and catch up on their chores instead. 🙂 Wish you were here Cons …. literally!!!!
What a fun post with great pics! I was mesmerized by those gentle giants. My mother wrote a poem about her swimming with the manatees (is the plural of manatee manatees?) so I’ll have to call her and have her remind me. Miss ya
Ooooh oooooh ooooooh I so totally want to know the manatee poem now! I hope she remembers, I imagine it has been a hot minute since then! Looking forward to seeing you gals again at Chuck’s place on May 5!